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〃You're not going out； sir？〃 he said。
〃Yes；〃 I said。 〃We're going to see the storm along the lake。〃
〃Haven't you got an umbrella； sir？〃
〃No；〃 I said。 〃This coat sheds water。〃
He looked at it doubtfully。 〃I'll get you an umbrella； sir；〃 he said。 He went away and came back with a big umbrella。 〃It is a little big； sir；〃 he said。 I gave him a ten…lira note。 〃Oh you are too good； sir。 Thank you very much；〃 he said。 He held the door open and we went out into the rain。 He smiled at Catherine and she smiled at him。 〃Don't stay out in the storm；〃 he said。 〃You will get wet； sir and lady。〃 He was only the second porter； and his English was still literally translated。
〃We'll be back；〃 I said。 We walked down the path under the giant umbrella and out through the dark wet gardens to the road and across the road to the trellised pathway along the lake。 The wind was blowing offshore now。 It was a cold； wet November wind and I knew it was snowing in the mountains。 We came along past the chained boats in the slips along the quay to where the barman's boat should be。 The water was dark against the stone。 The barman stepped out from beside the row of trees。
〃The bags are in the boat；〃 he said。
〃I want to pay you for the boat；〃 I said。
〃How much money have you？〃
〃Not so much。〃
〃You send me the money later。 That will be all right。〃
〃How much？〃
〃What you want。〃
〃Tell me how much。〃
〃If you get through send me five hundred francs。 You won't mind that if you get through。〃
〃All right。〃
〃Here are sandwiches。〃 He handed me a package。 〃Everything there was in the bar。 It's all here。 This is a bottle of brandy and a bottle of wine。〃 I put them in my bag。 〃Let me pay you for those。〃
〃All right； give me fifty lire。〃
I gave itto him。 〃The brandy is good；〃 he said。 〃You don't need to be afraid to give itto your lady。 She better get in the boat。〃 He held the boat； it rising and falling against the stone wall and I helped Catherine in。 She sat in the stern and pulled her cape around her。
〃You know where to go？〃
〃Up the lake。〃
〃You know how far？〃
〃Past Luino。〃
〃Past Luino； Cannero； Cannobio； Tranzano。 You aren't in Switzerland until you e to Brissago。 You have to pass Monte Tamara。〃
〃What time is it？〃 Catherine asked。
〃It's only eleven o'clock；〃 I said。
〃If you row all the time you ought to be there by seven o'clock in the morning。〃
〃Is it that far？〃
〃It's thirty…five kilometres。〃
〃How should we go？ In this rain we need a pass。〃
〃No。 Row to Isola Bella。 Then on the other side of Isola Madre go with the wind。 The wind will take you to Pallanza。 You will see the lights。 Then go up the shore。〃
〃Maybe the wind will change。〃
〃No；〃 he said。 〃This wind will blow like this for three days。 It es straight down from the Mattarone。 There is a can to bail with。〃
〃Let me pay you something for the boat now。〃
〃No； I'd rather take a chance。 If you get through you pay me all you can。〃
〃All right。〃
〃I don't think you'll get drowned。〃
〃That's good。〃
〃Go with the wind up the lake。〃
〃All right。〃
I stepped in the boat。
〃Did you leave the money for the hotel？〃
〃Yes。 In an envelope in the room。〃
〃All right。 Good luck； Tenente。〃
〃Good luck。 We thank you many times。〃
〃You won't thank me if you get drowned。〃
〃What does he say？〃 Catherine asked。
〃He says good luck。〃
〃Good luck；〃 Catherine said。
〃Thank you very much。〃
〃Are you ready？〃
〃Yes。〃
He bent down and shoved us off。 I dug at the water with the oars； then waved one hand。 The barman waved back deprecatingly。 I saw the lights of the hotel and rowed out； rowing straight out until they were out of sight。 There was quite a sea running but we were going with the wind。
37
I rowed in the dark keeping the wind in my face。 The rain had stopped and only came occasionally in gusts。 It was very dark； and the wind was cold。 I could see Catherine in the stern but I could not see the water where the blades of the oars dipped。 The oars were long and there were no leathers to keep them from slipping out。 I pulled； raised； leaned forward； found the water； dipped and pulled； rowing as easily as I could。 I did not feather the oars because the wind was with us。 I knew my hands would blister and I wanted to delay it as long as I could。 The boat was light and rowed easily。 I pulled it along in the dark water。 I could not see； and hoped we would soon e opposite Pallanza。
We never saw Pallanza。 The wind was blowing up the lake and we passed the point that hides Pallanza in the dark and never saw the lights。 When we finally saw some lights much further up the lake and close to the shore it was Intra。 But for a long time we did not see any lights； nor did we see the shore but rowed steadily in the dark riding with the waves。 Sometimes I missed the water with the oars in the dark as a wave lifted the boat。 It was quite rough； but I kept on rowing； until suddenly we were close ashore against a point of rock that rose beside us； the waves striking against it； rushing high up； then falling back。 I pulled hard on the right oar and backed water with the other and we went out into the lake again； the point was out of sight and we were going on up the lake。
〃We're across the lake；〃 I said to Catherine。
〃Weren't we going to see Pallanza？〃
〃We've missed it。〃
〃How are you； darling？〃
〃I'm fine。〃
〃I could take the oars awhile。〃
〃No； I'm fine。〃
〃Poor Ferguson；〃 Catherine said。 〃In the morning she'll e to the hotel and find we're gone。〃
〃I'm not worrying so much about that；〃 I said； 〃as about getting into the Swiss part of the lake before it's daylight and the custom guards see us。〃
〃Is it a long way？〃
〃It's some thirty kilometres from here。〃
I rowed all night。 Finally my hands were so sore I could hardly close them over the oars。 We were nearly smashed up on the shore several times。 I kept fairly close to the shore because I was afraid of getting lost on the lake and losing time。 Sometimes we were so close we could see a row of trees and the road along the shore with the mountains behind。 The rain stopped and the wind drove the clouds so that the moon shone through and looking back I could see the long dark point of Castagnola and the lake with white…caps and beyond； the moon on the high snow mountains。 Then the clouds came over the moon again and the mountains and the lake were gone； but it was much lighter than it had been before and we could see the shore。 I could see it too clearly and pulled out where they would not see the boat if there were custom guards along the Pallanza road。 When the moon came out again we could see white villas on the shore on the slopes of the mountain and thewhite road where it showed through the trees。 All the time I was rowing。
The lake widened and across it on the shore at the foot of the mountains on the other side we saw a few lights that should be Luino。 I saw a wedgelike gap between the mountains on the other shore and I thought that must be Luino。 If it was we were making good time。 I pulled in the oars and lay back on the seat。 I was very； very tired of rowing。 My arms and shoulders and back ached and my hands were sore。
〃I could hold the umbrella；〃 Catherine said。 〃We could sail with that with the wind。〃
〃Can you steer？〃
〃I think so。〃
〃You take this oar and hold it under your arm close to the side of the boat and steer and I'll hold the umbrella。〃 I went back to the stern and showed her how to hold the oar。 I took the big umbrella the porter had given me and sat facing the bow and opened it。 It opened with a clap。 I held it on both sides； sitting astride the handle hooked over the seat。 The wind was full in it and I felt the boat suck forward while I held as hard as I could to the two edges。 It pulled hard。 The boat was moving fast。
〃We're going beautifully；〃 Catherine said。 All I could see was umbrella ribs。 The umbrella strained and pulled and I felt us driving along with it。 I braced my feet and held back on it； then suddenly； it buckled； I felt a rib snap on my forehead； I tried to grab the top that was bending with the wind and the whole thing buckled and went inside out and I was astride the handle of an inside…out； ripped umbrella； where I had been holding a wind…filled pulling sail。